As I stepped bleary eyed and jet lagged into the arrivals hall of Singapore airport I was met by a quizzical face with an expression that read ‘In-the-name of-all that-is-Holy-say–yes, accompanied by the words, “Are you wearing contacts?” “Uhhm, no” came my hesitant response. “Oh…I wouldn’t want to meet you down a dark alley hey? Haha!” my driver fired back nonchalantly.
Not quite the reaction I was hoping for as the new updater of the Rough Guide to Singapore. I had concocted imaginings of high fives all round, knowing winks, ubiquitous tales of rock star Westerner in Eastern land. But no. I was immediately cast as an extra from Underworld (“It’s a great film! It made me want fangs too!” came the next backhander, pouring lemon juice into my seeping pridal wound).
Still, let's say I was too tired to really care after 24 hours of travel (courtesy of Emirates-highly recommended). And so we began the drive into Singapore, passing sunny, palm tree-lined roads that 'double up as an extra runway in times of need', my driver proudly explained as I frantically checked the rear view mirror for further signs of devil incarnation.
After a catnap and shower at my hostel The Inn Crowd it was time to hit the streets with my driver who took me to my first Hawker centre, located on Whampoa Drive- a residential area away from the madding crowds. Hawker centres are open air food courts where you can get freshly made food that reveals the eclectic mix of Singapore’s diverse population- 78% Chinese, 14% Malay, 7.5% Indian for all you factoid fanciers. Dotted all over the city, they’re a must-see. You could eat something different every day of the week for several months such is the diversity. I opted for Fish bee hoon, a kind of broth with deep fried red snapper fish, rice vermicelli noodles, Chinese spinach, seaweed, evaporated milk, all flavoured with teebor – a dried salted fish that adds flavour. Really, really good I drank that milkshake up like a good ‘un. I washed it down with a glass of sugar cane juice and a raw food salad that’s popular here called Rojak- it consists of pineapple, turnip, cucumber, bean sprouts, lettuce, celantro (Chinese parsley), dough balls, taupok (dried bean curd) all smothered in a sticky peanut sauce. Chilli padis are optional but I was already wiping the sweat from my brow so opted against.
After a few cocky Ts at a beachside bar jetlag meant I had to call it a night, but not before rambling incoherently about the state of the world’s finances to my guide, who visibly wilted by the second. Brilliant.
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